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Would
you call yourself creative?
Everyone "makes" something.
Think about making a living, or making dinner, or making
babies. What about making a date to do something? Or making
room. Or making excuses....
In
Spanish, the verb hacer means both "to make" and "to
do." A similar verb exists in most Romance languages,
because the notion of Doing almost intrinsically connotes
Making something. The two concepts are so closely aligned
that in many cultures, there is a belief that everyone
is creative.
How,
then, did we come to believe that creativity is limited
to a minority, to the ones we ordain as Talented?
Most
people will agree that children are innately creative.
The prevailing wisdom is that we chase creativity out of
kids when we drill in order, and form, and adherence to
rules. Yet every artist or athelete or musician or writer
will tell you that her work contains order and form and
follows rules, even if they are expressed in a non-traditional
manner.
Could
it be then that our notion of creativity needs to be re-examined?
Dare we believe that each of us contains, still, the ability
to be creative? And that we could develop this talent,
just like any other skill, if we "make" the effort?
I
believe we are all creative. And since "she who writes
the first draft, wins," (i.e., it's my newsletter
so you get stuck with stuff that interests me), we'll be
exploring this topic from several angles in the weeks to
come.
On
Creativity, Part II
Until
the latter part of the twentieth century, we all pretty
much measured intelligence by tests, by school grades,
by academic or career achievements.
Since
psychologist Howard Gardner introduced his theory of multiple
intelligences in the 1983 book Frames of Mind, however,
that new theory has largely replaced the earlier ones.
Educators now assume seven measurable intelligences, with
at least 25 subdivisions.
In
case you were otherwise occupied in 1983, the seven accepted
intelligences are:
Logical-mathematical
Verbal-linguistic
Spatial-mechanical
Musical
Bodily-kinesthetic
Interpersonal-social
Intrapersonal (self knowledge)
Thus,
when we watch Olympic athletes push themselves to new records,
to quadruple loops that could not be accomplished a decade
ago, we are actually witnessing the growth of intelligence
in bodily-kinesthetic movement.
And
when we marveled at Mother Theresa's ability to gain commitment
from world leaders based on nothing more than her vision
and charisma, we saw evidence of her intrapersonal intelligence
in action.
An
equally important corrolary of this expanded definition
of intelligence is: learning does not take place only in
the brain.
So,
it is possible to be "smart" with your fingers.
Or a paintbrush. Or on the dance floor, or with clay, or
with beads, or a pencil ... or a gardening trowel.
Well,
why am I talking about intelligence when I said we'd be
considering creativity? It seems to me that we consider
someone smart or "good at" something when they
follow the instructions that someone else has figured out
before them. But intelligence turns into creativity when
you know the rules ... and find a new way to interpret
them. In any area, not just in the arts or in scholarship.
So
if pesto is made with basil and pine nuts, but a cook uses
alternate ingredients of cilantro and walnuts ... that
is creative.
If
the pattern calls for blue wool and you make it instead
with gold cotton and orange mohair ... that is creative.
If
the toddler just won't stop screaming and you make her
run around the room 10 times to use up that energy instead
of sitting quietly in her time-out corner ... that is creative.
Are
you beginning to believe that you might be just a little
bit creative after all?
On
Creativity and Aging
Although
most of us have read (and reluctantly believe) that after
25, we lose brain capacity on a daily basis, recent studies
have shown that this does not have to be true.
Our
neurons are capable of making increasingly complex new
connections throughout our lives. And, our neuronal endowment
is so great that, even if we lost a thousand brain cells
every day for the rest of our lives, it would still be
less than 1 percent of our total. (Source: How To Think
Like Leonardo Da Vinci, Michael J. Gelb, Delacorte Press,
1998, p. 5)
In
fact, current research shows that while we might take a
little bit longer to retrieve the information we have stored
in our brains, "the power of the aging mind in areas
of interpretation, judgement, creativity, and imagination
is undiminished and continues to benefit from educational
stimulation." (Source: Longevity Revolution, Theodore
Roszak, Beverly Hills Books, 2001, p. 273)
Think
about that. Our ability to create, to make judgements,
to dream new dreams, is unaltered as we age. In fact, many
contend that without the overriding pressures of career
and raising children, we are actually freer to recognize
our creative impulses, and more able to act on them now
than at any other point in our lives.
Then
read the clipping which appeared this week in an online
publication:
"Researchers at the Harvard Mind/Body Institute recently found out what
women have known for centuries, knitting is relaxing. The process of knitting
lowered heart rate and blood pressure and reduced muscle tension. Knitting classes
are offered as stress therapy....New research has found this type of brain stimulation
might help to prevent the development of Alzheimer's disease. The lifestyle histories
of 193 Alzheimer's patients were compared with 358 people in the same age group
who did not have the disease. Researchers found that people ages 40 to 60 who
pursued intellectually stimulating activities like knitting, reading, crossword
puzzles or playing a musical instrument had a significantly lower risk of developing
the degenerative disease than those who engage in more passive activities like
television watching or listening to music."
So
what are you waiting for? Get out there and Make Something.
Essentials
of Creating
Like
most of us, I have taken a few classes on Making Stuff.
I have read some books, studied (and taught) creativity,
practiced techniques, and I keep searching for that elusive
experience that will take some basic materials (i.e., yarns),
a tool or two (hook, needles), an interesting idea, and
turn them into Something Wonderful.
As
I said, I keep on trying.
Because
it seems to me, the only way to make something beautiful
is to keep making lots of things that are just fine. But
that's all. Then suddenly, when I least expect it, one
of them is going to turn out to be terrific. And the more
I make, the greater the odds that The One is just around
the corner.
Try
to imagine that Mozart simply sat down one day and wrote
the perfect sonata. Or that Michaelangelo suddenly picked
up a paintbrush and declared, "Now, for my first masterpiece...." Of
course, they each had talent that ultimately became genius.
But we would never have known that if they hadn't studied,
and practiced. A lot. And turned out a bunch of truly mediocre
pieces, in between the memorable ones.
It
also seems to me that many of the things one has to do
to produce Something Wonderful are pretty elemental.
1.
Just show up.
If you don't do it: knit or write or garden or paint, you will absolutely
never produce your masterpiece. Heck, you won't even produce a failure.
Oh, but that is a lot safer, isn't it?
2.
Have access to the materials you need.
There's not a lot of gardening in the tundra. And not a lot of knitting
without yarns. So don't begrudge yourself your paints or clay or plants
or computer, or whatever you need to take starter steps toward your
dream. The worst thing is never to start.
3.
Have a support system.
A cat is not a support system. No, you need friends (friends are better
for this than spouses or relatives) who understand what you are going
through. Some people benefit from other artists in their field. Others
just need a good friend who'll say "Wow! I don't know how you
do that!" Still other need someone asking "What are you working
on? What are you going to do next?"
What
none of us needs is a critic, while we are engaged in Making
Something. Afterwards, criticism is optional. But during
the process: no kibbitzing allowed. After all, it's your
work, not their work. Right or wrong: it is You who are
making this.
4.
Do it again.
And again, and again, and ... don't stop. Because the seeds for our
next work are always in the one we've just finished. The stitch that
was hardest will inspire your next design. The character that wouldn't
come to life may be the antagonist of your next story. The colors that
clashed will show you how they can sing when you use them differently.
5.
Listen to your work.
Assuming that you have acquired some basic technique, everything you
need to know about your work is contained within your work. Truly.
Be open and as objective as you can be, and ask your work what it needs.
If you need to work on color, or finishing, or design, or attention
to details ... your work will tell you that. You don't need a judge
to evaluate you. Just be sure you get credit for all the things that
are right in that piece, too.
So
there you have it. A low cost, low maintenance way to improve
your craft. Right now. Without taking classes, or ordering
books, or miring yourself in insecurity.
'Anybody
got a problem with that? (grin)
The
Grandma Knitting Stigma
I
rarely relinquish my soapbox to another writer. (And I
couldn't resist adding my two cents as an Afterward.) But
I wanted to share the concept posited by Jessica, a graduate
student who teaches Fiber Arts for Artists at a Boston
university. In describing her class the first week in March,
Jesssica wrote:
We
discussed the GRANDMA KNITTING "STIGMA" and the
consensus is that our culture does not value older women.
A reknowned knitting author and editor I have had the good
luck to become acquainted with has told me she aspires
to be a knitting grandmother, with her tea and her cozy
rocking chair, and she wants to know what's wrong with
that image. I concur with her. These cultural matriarchs
have been fonts of nurturing support for families through
thick and thin. You know that phrase, "behind every
good man is a great woman?" Well, behind every good
family is an AMAZING grandmother.
If
we willingly give away our inner wisdom and sense of connection
to our grandmother's wisdom, we can be more easily manipulated.
We as women find it easier to fall into the patterns of
buying youth through innumerable beauty products and magazines.
It's a huge industry: the culturally-created insecurity
of women facing the inexorability of time. When older women
have so much experience, so many skills, so much to give;
when Grandmothers have been the invisible hands doing the
work underlying families for generations.
I
feel blessed to have many Grandmothers, who have given
me so many skills and hints. Even those who have been wounded
by our culture who ignore them, having refused to listen
to them for years. My LYSO has complained of the indecision
of some older women, when she asks them what they want.
My answer to that is, These are women of a generation who,
for the most part, were NEVER asked what they want! So
of course they are not going to know what color they like
better, or what they feel. One grandmother customer makes
incredible intarsia sweaters, designed as she knits them.
But if you tell her that it is beautiful, she won't hear
of it, and will tell you what a good liar you are. I am
angry at the world for stripping from this woman the sense
that her work is valued and beautiful.
... <sigh> Stepping
off sentimental soapbox now. Today was a day of remarkable
conversations around this issue of the 'image' of knitting
and what it can be used for...Don't even get me started
on the "feminists" at school who look down their
noses at using knitting to make art! That's an oxymoron
of sorts, isn't it?
Jessica
in Boston
Dear
Jessica,
Please
forgive me for cleaning up your punctuation, but leaving
your participles dangling and modifiers mismatched.
I
am a grandmother, although I hope I don't share the insecurities
you described so achingly above. What I do share is your
outrage, your indignity at a world that disparages the
customs and cultures of a former era.
It
seems to me that we are expending a great deal of energy
these days in being openminded toward the cultures of other
nations. And that is, as Martha says, a good thing. But
at the same time, are we closing our minds to the cultures
of generations that preceded our own? For that is not a
good thing, not a good thing at all.
I
hope, too, that your concept of grandmother does not exclude
women "of a certain age" who aren't lucky enough
to have grandchildren. Because the wisdom we accumulate
comes from lives fully lived, whether or not that includes
raising children who have children.
I
like your point, Jessica. The women who started life before
we did have much to teach us. And we who are now ourselves
the older generation hope that you will be open to learning
from us, too. But here's our heady little secret: we don't
need your approval or your participation in order to enjoy
our knitting or gardening or painting or acting whatever
brings us sanity and satisfaction. 'Cause one of the very
best things (there are a few of them) about growing older
is that we are finally freed from looking over our shoulder.
We can wear purple; we can throw away painful shoes, and
we can do things Just Because We Feel Like It.
So
bring on the Grandma Knitting Stigma. We can handle it.
Heck, we can lionize it. And don't mess with us: we've
got two pointy sticks, no inhibitions, and we fill out
the tee shirt that tells you.
Sheila
in Ajijic
Gifts
From the Heart Or Make-Do Giving?
Those
of us who make things are True Believers. Whether we garden
or knit or paint or quilt or pot or cook, we are totally
sure in our heart of hearts that if we make something wonderful,
with thought and care and love and intent, we will present
the best gift in the universe when we give our the fruit
of our efforts to someone else.
If
only we could ensure that the recipient will agree.
Haven't
we all experienced the disappointment when that lovingly
made and carefully wrapped gift turned out to be so NOT
what the celebrant wanted to receive? You labored for months
over that argyle sweater. You thoughtfully chose colors
that would complement, stretching the budget to include
the soft, warm cashmere that will feel so good next to
his skin. You knit love into each stitch and persevered
when the colors got twisted and the gauge was off by an
inch and you had to frog a whole sleeve. You even blocked
the darn thing, after cursing while assembling and weaving
in all the loose ends. But it was worth it, to give the
proof of caring and personalization that says "You
matter to me."
While
what he wanted was a Palm Pilot, all shiny and black and
state of the techno-art.
Yet
still we persist, and make things for others. We can't
help ourselves; the very act of creating involves sharing
with other people. In the aftermath of September 11, craft
guilds and knit groups and quilting groups and stitching
clubs worked tirelessly to produce socks and blankets and
caps and toys to say "I care about you" to victims
and workers from that travesty.
In
relief camps for Afghanistan (and earlier for Bosnia) the
women refugees request knitting needles and yarn and instruction.
They say that they feel less helpless and devalued if they
can be making something for their families or for other
refugees.
So
while there will always be people who feel that a gift
counts only if it is purchased, there will also be people
who know that a present made from the heart is the best
gift of all. As the Mastercard marketeers remind us, " Soft
yarn to knit sweater or afghan or baby blanket or tot's
cardigan, $60. Pattern for project, $5. Hours spent lovingly
crafting a keepsake and remembrance of the maker, priceless."
If
you plan to make even one present for Christmas this year,
now is a good time to start. It ALWAYS takes longer than
we expect to make something, external circumstances always
arise, and we always lose interest when we are part way
through a project. Plan for that, and you'll be a much
happier camper come October.
Making
Art Is Not For Sissies
Life
is short, art long, opportunity fleeting, experience teacherous,
judgement difficult.
Hippocrates (460-400 BC)
In
their wonderful little book Art & Fear, David Bayles
and Ted Orland make some salient observations for artists
and would-be artists. The points listed here (in boldface)
are theirs; only the elaborations are mine.
1.
Artmaking involves skills that can be learned.
Genius doesn't just happen. Neither does being "good enough." We
have to study, observe, and as the cliche goes, practice practice practice.
And then practice some more.
A
naif style is quite wonderful, if it is indeed a style.
If it is just a lack of skill, it belongs on a refrigerator,
where the mother of the perpetrator can love it. It is
one thing to admire the novelty that a child can bring
to an enterprise. It is another to romanticize it as better
than a trained, skilled practicioner's work. Grandma Moses
was no novice. It took her decades of effort to achieve
the "unspoiled" look that brought her a fortune.
And just supposed she hadn't lived as long as she did ....
2.
Art is made by ordinary people.
That's right: folks just like you and me.
Not
geniuses, not savants, not wealthier or poorer or more
indigenous or more cultured or less restricted or less
bound by society: just people. You, too, could make art.
If you really want to. You don't have to be gifted, or
special, or have artistic relatives, or unlimited time.
You
just have to want to, and then work at it. You might not
make great art; you might not even make good art. But you
can make art.
Because
you are people, too.
3.
Making art and viewing art are are different at their core.
For someone looking at your completed project, what you have made is
what matters.
But
for you as the maker, the process is ALL that matters.
Not the finished object. Because making something is about
the doing. It is about learning how to make it right; about
saying something (I am a technically correct knitter but
I have to follow a pattern precisely as it is written);
about getting better at what you do (I made this without
a pattern, and hey, it actually looks like a sweater. And
I'd wear it!). It is about learning from your mistakes
(this purple and that orange are definitely not a fit),
about experimenting (writing with no punctuation is OK
for e e cummings, but maybe not for me), about improving
(I made an entire meal without a can of soup or a bottle
of ketsup and nobody got sick!).
So
if all you want to do is finish the project you have just
started ... perhaps you need to find a new skill to practice.
Or at least a new project. Of course, we all reach the
point where we can't wait to have "this one" behind
us, mostly because we want to start The Next One.
But
if you don't ever get excited about The Next One, trust
me: you need a different medium for your message.
4.
Artmaking has been around longer than the art establishment.
And critics can be the death of beginners, and intermediates, and all
but the masters of their medium.
Art
remains art, whether it's sketched on the wall of a cave,
or stitched in the canvas of the tapestry. It's a way to
say who you are, and what you see, and to leave your message.
And who is some third party to tell you you don't have
the right to do that?
Heck,
even Outsider Art (l'Art Brut) has its critics and promoters
and cataloguers. Isn't that oxymoronic: that art outside
the establishment is evaluated by people from inside the
art world?
All
of which just goes to say: if you want to make art, make
art. Bite the bullet; seize the moment; get out and do
it.
'Cause
if not now, when?
Books
...
Fifteen
(15!) new books on yarn, knitting, crocheting, design,
and fiber creativity arrived on my doorstep this week.
I don't sell these books (I would lose money), but they
are always available for you to look for inspiration, ideas,
tips and tricks. Come and browse; all 15 will be on the
tables for perusing this week.
HANDPAINT
COUNTRY THE luscious new book this season. Focusing on
hand dyed yarns and the people who create them, with patterns,
tips, and some of the most magnificent color photography
you will find anywhere, on any topic.
HAVE
YOU ANY WOOL? While not new, this inspiring book by British
author Jan Messent is off the charts in presenting creative
ideas for yarns. Not your usual sweater book, this presents
other ways to play with yarns: yarn wrapping, objects,
wall hangings, scultures ... you'll be dazzled!
CHUNKY
KNITS A Vogue publication with fun, bulky sweaters that
work up quickly, and are super stylish. Great for gifts.
BEST
IN CONTEMPORARY BEADING Inspirational for the use of color,
design, and concept. Not much bead knitting or crochet,
but one needleart deserves another. If you already bead,
don't miss this book.
HOW
TO CROCHET Designed by England's Pauline Turner to be a
series of workshops, this book covers the waterfront with
stitches, technique, and projects.
JEAN
MOSS WORLD KNITS Published back in 1995, but I'm taking
a Jean Moss Knit and Garden tour in May, so I had to own
this one. And the garments, inspired by ethnic textiles
from around the globe, are ALL on my wish list.
TWO
STICKS AND A STRING Designs inspired by nature, quite a
few borrowing from Native American themes. Enriching.
45
FINE AND FANCIFUL HATS Laid out by style (beret, pillbox,
etc.) these are colorful, fun, and festive. Great for devotees
of fair isle or charted knitting. Some are daunting; I
wouldn't start a beginner with this book.
FABRIC
AND HAND DYERS HANDBOOK Over 100 tempting recipes to dye
and pattern fabric. With names like Persian Berry and Madder
Ball, what's not to like?
FABRIC
DYEING AND PRINTING Another wonderful English publication,
considered one of the ultimate in how-to and why. A graduate
school education in textiles, without leaving the village.
KNITTING
WORKSHOP Elizabeth Zimmerman, may she rest in peace, was
the mother of courage for all new knitters in the century
past. This classic reminds us of her humor, her practicality,
and her wonderful nurturing spirit. "Knit on, through
all crises." EZ
MONKEYSUITS
If this isn't the most adorable collection of kids knits,
show me a better one! Simply the cutest patterns, from
newborns to elementary school sizes. Dress your darling
as a bumblebee, a puppy, or in coveralls with a blankie
to drag along. If you don't have a wee one to knit for,
you'll adopt someone else's after seeing this book.
KNITTING
FOR THE HOME Let's face it, you CAN have too many sweaters
(but I'll deny I said that). Or you live in Mexico, and
just don't wear sweaters most of the year. What to do with
those nimble fingers? Why create a pillow, an afghan, a
lampshade, a bowl of fruit ....
WOOLY
THOUGHTS How to knit anything, without using a pattern.
The two authors are math teachers, who contend that anything
worth knitting can be knit in squares, using a garter square.
Cute illustrations; thoughtful concept.
THE
VERY STUFF Poems on color, thread, and the habits of women.
Stephen Beal takes one DMG embroidery floss color per poem,
and weaves us a tale for it. To close out this week's mailing,
here is his 3607, on an assertive fuschia/mauve:
I
have to admit I'm suspicious of this color.
Wary, even though I've come to use it a lot.
For one thing, if my daughter were going to the prom,
I would not select this fuschia for her gown.
On the other hand, she might.
I
mean, here we are, the kind of folks
who button up the house by ten,
having guaranteed
that the dog has been walked
that the cat has come in
that the African violets have been watered
that the basement lights are off.
And all the while we are doing our duty,
tucking in the little ones and saying our prayers,
3607 is out at the roadhouse,
dancing the Monkey with a man named Earl!
What
do you do with a color like this?
Lock her up?
Take away her ankle bracelet?
Make her enroll in data-entry?
No, you old stuffed shirt, just let her be,
soaring on her wings of neon
to the lipstick chorus line.
More
New Books To Browse!
Sally
Melville Styles
Just about the best how-to book for using leftover yarns, venturing
beyond a pattern, testing out your own ideas. With wonderful photos
shot on location in Waterloo County, Ontario, this is a book to treasure
and refer to, over and over. Best of all, its author, Sally Melville,
is coming to Ajijic to give personal workshops for us in November!
Definitely a book to peruse, if you don't already own it.
The
Urban Knitter
Young knitters, in their 20s and 30s, are the fastest growing segment
of our market right now. And Lily Chin knows how and why to appeal
to them. If you know someone in this demographic segment, you owe it
to yourself to see what they are knitting. Don't miss the knit shoes
and knit bras!
Three
in a Series:
Miao Textiles From China
Printed and Dyed Textiles From Africa
Textiles From Guatemala
What can I say that the titles don't? Only that the photography matches
or excels the scholarship in these little gems. You will be in awe and
in fabric lust for these garments. To dream for.
Kids
Knitting
A colorful book for kids and those who work with them. Frankly, I think
it could have been done better. But the look is appealing, even if
the intent exceeds the reality.
Art
To Wear
A luscious, delectible, astound-your-senses coffee table book. Julie
Schafler Dale, owner of the first gallery in the US devoted to Art
To Wear, assembled this magnificent book in 1986. Consequently, many
of the clothes feature huge shoulders and an excess they would not
display today. But the creativity of the artists who made the clothes
transcends the temporary fashion blip. There are knit clothes, crocheted
clothes, quilted clothes, embroidered clothes, hammered clothes, feathered
clothes, iron clothes, and of course, an amazing collage of mixed media
clothes. To drool for. But not to wear to the tianguis.
Nicky
Epstein's Knitted Embellishments. Not a new book (Interweave
Press, 1999), this was a claring omission from my library.
Featuring 350 appliques, border, cords, and more, it is
chock full of wonderful ideas to make an ordinary knit
outstanding. With a trim called Brunhilda's Broom Border
or a Gossamer Rose applique, who wouldn't feel that her
garment is the most special ever?
Vintage
Knits by Sarah Dallas was inspired by postwar (WW II, that
is) designs at Yesterknits in Scotland, reputed to be the
world's largest collection of vintage knit and crochet
patterns. Each contemporary counterpart is shown with its
original inspiration. It is accompanied by copy explaining,
for example, that stitch structure was often used to camaflouge
the reclaimed yarn knitters were forced to use. Utterly
charming.
Family
Circle Easy Sweaters, contains a collection of 50 knit
and crochet sweaters, all at either the beginner or intermediate
level. Sweaters for women, sweaters for men, sweaters for
children. You're sure to find something here to spark your
fancy.
Freeform:
Serendipitous Design Techniques for Knitting and Crochet,
is by Prudence Mapstone, queen of the freeform movement
from Australia. It hits my hot spot; I'm already planning
my next freeform project. (Just so you know, it's a knitting
bag (!) with wooden handles I salvaged from an antiques
market. I promise a photo when it's finished ... but this
is a project it will take me months to make, in increments.)
Knitting
For Anarchists, by Anna Zilboorg. OK, I admit it: just
the title intrigued me. I'm not disappointed. Part philosophy,
part reflection, and part encouragement for moving beyond
The Rules, this is a great book for someone who knits not
for fashion or folly, but to make a distinctive, lovely,
yet practical item. See below for an example.
Celebrity
Knit Sightings
Thanks
to stars like Julia Roberts, Tyra Banks, Tyne Daly, Sandra
Bullock, Sarah Michelle Geller, Wynona Ryder,, Megan
Mullaly ... knitting is hot. Knitting is hip. Knitting
is cool. Check out the two successive issues of People
magazine featuring knitting and knitted objects! Knitting
is not just for Wrinklies anymore.
It
helps that two Los Angeles area knit shops, one in Santa
Monica and one in Studio City, have owners with a French
attitude and young sensibility. It also helps that since
September 11, there has been an unprecedented surge in
under-30s wanting to knit and crochet. In fact, the fastest
growing segment of the industry right now is the under-30s.
For
a special NPR/All Things Considered report on knitting
today, go to http://www.npr.org/ramfiles/atc/20020115.atc.10.ram
. Or, go to www. npr.org and enter the words "cool
knitting" in the search engine.
So
dust off those needles ... or treat yourself to a new set.
But whatever you do, don't tell the Beautiful People: studies
have proven that knitting and crochet, which engage the
mind and motor skills yet involve a repetitive rhythm inducing
relaxation, are likely to forestall Alzheimers. We'll just
call that Granny's Little Secret.
How
To Read A Yarn Label
Did
you know that the label attached by the manufacturer to each
skein of yarn contains just about everything you need to
know to make something beautiful with that yarn?
Let's
start with the content. When you pick up a yarn, if you like
the way it feels (or if you hate it), you want to know what
it is. The label will tell you it is 100% cotton, or 70%
mohair & 30% silk, or whatever.
But
that information all by itself is limited. You also want
to know if you can wash the fiber, or throw it in the machine,
or send it to the tintorería. International standards
have pretty well ensured that instructions for care will
be given on every label. Because a label is small, a symbol
might be used instead of text. I don't have a font with these
little symbols on my computer to show you here, but I do
have books that can explain them. Ask me on Wednesdays if
you have questions.
Still,
knowing the fiber content is just the first step in choosing
a yarn.
"How
many of these do I need?" is the next question you need
to ask. The maddening answer is, of course, "that depends."
Are you making a sweater? Long sleeves or short? Full fit or extra full
or classic or trendy? What about length? Are you using several colors?
Will you be ribbing the edges? Adding cuffs? Collar?
Don't
Freak. This is how we (you and I) start to figure it out:
we go back to the label. Most likely, somewhere on the label
it will tell us how many yards or meters of yarn the skein
contains. This will look like 50g/93yds or 1 oz/200m. Now,
I have books that tell us how many yds/meters for what kind
of garment, and there are even web sites that gives us this
info. But those are approximations, and vary according to
the details of what you plan to make.
The
label, however, offers us still more information to help
make your finished product perfect.
In
tiny print somewhere on that label is another critical element.
It might be stated as "5 st = 1 in. #4." Or it
might have a picture of miniature knitting needles, with
the cryptic "5 = 1" above and "4" beneath
the needles. Or it might have a drawing of a square, with
arrows pointing to the sides and 20 = 4 showing horizontally,
with #4 beneath the square.
In
each of those instances, the label is telling you that an
average knitter using Size 4 needles will knit 5 stitches
to the inch with this yarn.
Of
course, there is nothing Average about you. But we need a
start point, and these numbers (also known as the Gauge)
enable us to know whether the yarn will knit up firm and
tight, or airy like lace, or whether we want to knit with
two strands together to get the look we want.
So
now you know how to read the fine print. Next week, we'll
talk about swatching, and what to do if you don't knit like
that mythical, "average" knitter.
Swatching:
love it or hate it. But Do It.
Last
week we talked about reading the fine print on a label. This
week, let's take that information to the next level.
Once
you have chosen a yarn, your overwhelming desire is to start
making something with it. You have that yummy yarn; your
fingers ache to move softly and sensuously through it. You
can't wait to start the stitch you have chosen; to see a
design take shape. You can picture the sweater, the baby
gift, the stole, the pillow cover....
Whoa,
Nellie.
First,
you need to make a swatch. Swatching is not mysterious; it
is just making a small sample of what you are going to make
later and larger. You need to do this (it is VERY IMPORTANT)
to make sure you end up with the size and the appearance
you are expecting. If you don't swatch, odds are really high
that you will end up with something that is, well, OK, but
not wonderful. And who wants to spend her precious life's
energy making something that is just "OK"?
Now,
hardly anybody likes swatching. Sure, there are some rare
birds who do it for fun. There are some rare birds who clean
their ovens or refrigerators for fun, too, but who wants
to be one of them?
Nontheless,
if you want to feel proud of the object you have made, if
you want to rejoice in using your time to create something
beautiful and useful, if you want your gift to be used and
not stuck in the back of a drawer or closet ya gotta
swatch. Maggie Righetti, in her wonderful book Knitting In
Plain English, tells us well how to do it:
In
a comfy place at a quiet time, cast on 4 inches worth of
stitches with the yarn and the needles that you intend to
use for the project. Work even in the pattern stitch for
4 inches. Stop. With the side the public will see face down,
lay the swatch on a flat surface. In the middle, measure
across the whole width of the piece, gently uncurling the
side edges if necessary. If the piece is less than 4 inches
wide, get some larger needles. If the piece is more than
4 inches wide, get some smaller needles. Make a purl ridge
row across your swatch so that you can see where you changed
to different needles. Work even on the new needles for 4
inches. Stop and measure again. If it still is not 4 inches
wide, try another set of needles. Work however many times
it takes until your piece is 4 inches wide. Always divide
the total number of stitches by the width of the piece. That
is your gauge.
AND ... Please don't just make a gauge swatch once and think that forever
after your gauge will be fine and remain the same throughout the garment.
Rather, stop and check your work for total width as you go along....
Please don't continue working on something that is not right! Life gives
all of us enough problems to cope with. We don't need to manufacture
our own. The Bible says that God checked out Creation and saw that "it
was good, it was very good." You should do the same with the stitches
that you are creating.
Please
worry about gauge before worrying about anything else.
And that's all the preaching from me, for now.
We
Are All Connected
The
history of textiles is as old as the history of mankind.
But prior to the 20th century, very few patterns were preserved
in writing. Needleworkers of any persuasion (knit, crochet,
embroidery, etc.) simply taught each other. Frequently a
sampler was used as a memory tool, to demonstrate proficiency
but also to pass along stitches for future generations.
Recently,
we fiber folk have begun to revive the tradition of these
samplers.
I
thought it might be a worthwhile thing for us make a sampler
here, too. What a fine way for those of us who have gathered
at lakeside from all over the world to show our connectedness
with each other, and with the people whose traditions we
honor when we stitch.
My
thought is to knit (or crochet) our sampler in strips. Anyone
who comes into Mi Rinconcito can contribute a few rows, in
your favorite stitch, or color, or pattern. Use simple stockinette
or garter, if you choose. Or, you can knit some rows at home
and bring them into the shop for joining.
I
would suggest US Size 6/4 mm needles, and whatever yarn strikes
your fancy. We'll start a crochet strip, too, needle size
F/4 mm. And if anyone were motivated to contribute embroidery
or cross-stitch or quilting.... Let's make each strip six
inches wide (after blocking). That way, they are easily portable,
and can be taken along if someone plans to travel and wants
to collect samples from knitters around the world (definitely
part of MY plan).
Of
course, we will keep a log for contributors, asking for country
of origen, comments about the contribution, etc. You can
knit in a message, make something in memory of a loved one,
show off a hard-earned skill, make a patch for each grandchild,
play with color, remember a pet, and knit as much or as little
as you want.
And
what will we do with all these strips when we've gathered
them, months and months from now? Well, I am open to suggestions
about that.
The
most obvious answer is to combine the strips into an afghan
or wall hanging. But that is far from the only option. And
we don't have to decide that up front; perhaps the strips
themselves will suggest the best way to utilize them.
So
stop by some Wednesday, and add your part to our living history.
Fibers, after all, are a means of communication. Let us leave
our mark in beauty and practicality and color and tactile
pleasure.
Jargon
In the Information Age
If
you work with yarns, you probably Frog a lot. Frogging is a
contemporary expression that comes from the sound we English
speakers think frogs make: Rip(b) it; rip it.
Here are some other expressions commonly used in writing by knitters
or crocheters. Most of them could apply to any project, of any material.
FO
Finished object
WIP Work in progress
(Doing the) Happy Dance The elation you feel at finally completing something
UFO Unfinished object
YAS Yarn acquisition syndrome (similarly MagazineAS, PatternAS, BookAS,
etc.)
WIM Work in mind
BTW By the way
ThUD The usual disclaimer(s)
NAYY No affiliation, yadda yadda (when referring, for example, to a yarn
source or brand)
TIA Thanks in advance
LYS Local yarn store, i.e. Mi Rinconcito! Which is closely followed by
LYSO Local yarn shop owner (me)
Some
of these obviously developed in chat rooms or lists on-line.
Do you have a favorite that is not listed here? Let me know,
and we'll publish your additions next week. (OKC: On/obligatory
knitting content, please.)
Top
Ten Stash Excuses
Are
you having difficulty justifying the size of your stash? "Stash" is
the yarn you have accumulated because you have not yet made
something from it, because you have a skein or two left over
from a finished project, because you just couldn't resist its
siren call, because, well ... just because it's yarn.
Try one of these reasons next time someone asks you why you have so much
yarn. (AS IF you could ever have too much yarn.)
Originally
published in Bella On-Line
by Alison Trembley-Boucher
10.
I joined one of those yarn of the month clubs 20
years ago, and I keep forgetting to cancel my membership.
9.
My pet sheep thinks hes a cat, but instead of fur balls
he coughs up skeins of yarn.
8.
My son married an heiress to a yarn company fortune, and
this is her dowry.
7.
I got one of those chain letters that said if I sent a ball
of yarn to the next five people on the list, Id get
500 balls in return. Well imagine my surprise when it actually
worked!
6.
You know the saying, Say it with flowers? Same
idea, except my relatives say it with yarn instead.
5.
Im actually an undercover agent for the FBI (Fiber
Bureau of Investigation), and Im working on a case.
Jo Sharp and Kaffe Fassett have kidnapped Lily Chin, and
this is part of the ransom.
4.
Oh, this isnt mine! The local yarn store ran out of
room, so Im just storing their extra stock for them.
3.
Someday I plan to buy a small island and incorporate it as
a country, then use yarn as the national currency. So I dont
really think of this as a big pile of wool, but rather as
my retirement fund.
2.
I forgot to have my wools and cottons neuteured, and before
I knew it, theyd multiplied!
And
the Number 1 Reason for Having So Many Yarns in your stash:
1.
I read somewhere that you can lower your risk of getting
cancer and other diseases by increasing your fiber content.
And I must say that since I started buying more yarn, Ive
never felt better!
Which
Row Am I On?
The
following is reprinted from Socks Soar On Two Circular Needles,
by Cat Biordi, Passsing Paws Press, Friday Harbor, WA, May
2001. (Available at Mi Rinconcito for $200 pesos.)
"The
latest brain research (done while I am knitting) reveals
that the brain stores numbers in one dinky drawer with holes
in the bottom, while sensory images get a spacious guest
room with sauna.
Try
this: Replace the numbers one through ten with images saturated
with as many the senses as possible. For instance, imagine
one slice of green-skinned, juice-dripping, tangy Pippin
apple and two newborn robins peeping and tottering in a nest
littered with broken blue eggshells, the smell of raw eggs
perfuming the air. Use these if you like, but then come up
with your own ideas, for you will remember them best if they
arise from you.
Once
you have vivid sensory images for the numbers from one to
ten, rehearse them until they are second nature. Then, when
you are knitting eight rows or rounds and want to remember
which one you are on, conjure up the sensory image for one
while knitting the first one. Conjure up the image for two
for the second round, and so on. The sensory images will
root temporarily in your consciousness, for they are rich
with meaning, unlike numbers which vanish because of being
so generic.
If
you need to go beyond ten, combine an additional sensory
image with the others to mark the decade: hot sun for teens,
full moon for 20s, rain for 30s, etc. There is no limit to
this kind of sensory place-holding!
All
this intense mental imagination means that you are generating
thousands of dendrite fingers in your brain, which means
that more and more connections are being made and your are
becoming smarter while I knit. I am not making this up; it's
true."
Yarns
are such a sensory, tactile pleasure. And isn't that the
most luscious way to think about repetition?
From
the Mountains To the Gods
High
on the Andean plain "gold on the hoof," a fiber
we know as alpaca, was so revered by the Inca that they decreed
its luxurious softness and durability belonged only to the
noble class and the gods. The conquistadors, of course, knowing
that their way was the right way, pushed alpacas to higher
and higher ground to make room for their favored Merino sheep
from Spain. It took a British merchant named Sir Titus Salt
to re-discover the fiber in the mid-nineteenth century. Since
then, alpaca has joined cashmere and mohair and silk in the
ranks of luxury fibers.
Alpaca
the animal is related to the camel and llama and vicuna,
and 98% of the world's alpaca production comes from three
mountainous South American countries: Peru, Chile, and Bolivia.
Amazingly, alpaca's coats come in 22 natural colors, although
white and fawn now predominate because they can be most easily
dyed to fashion colors.
Alpaca
as a fiber is particularly valued because of its warmth:
it is seven time warmer than wool. In addition, it is also
prized for its strength, its luster, its adaptability to
dyes, its beautiful drape, and its resistance to pilling.
The downside of alpaca is that it lacks elasticity, and is
very slippery to work with. For these reasons, it is most
often blended with wool when spun for the hand knitting market.
To
knit succesfully with alpaca, you will probably want to use
bamboo or wooden needles; the metal and plastic variety provide
little resistance for this slippery fiber. You will also
be able to knit more loosely, and with larger needles than
when working with wool. The microscopic particles which trap
air in the fiber need space to breathe ... and a dense alpaca
garment will be needlessly heavy, and probably too warm for
all but the most extreme cold climates.
Moths
are happiest eating protein fibers such as alpaca, especially
when the fiber is dirty. So be sure to store your alpaca
garments clean. Handwash in lukewarm water, squeeze out excess
water, and dry flat. Alpaca has a great tendency to stretch,
so be sure to ease the garment back into its normal size
when you place it on a towel for drying.
Reprinted
from the Fall 2000 issue of Interweave "Knits," the
photo shows a Peruvian alpaca bonding with a sweater
made of its fleece. Now that the governments of Peru and
Chile have given permission to export the alpacas, several
intrepid north American breeders are attempting to creat
an expanded market in the fiber.
Where
Does ______ Come From, Anyway
Starting
a peripatetic series about the fibers we love, and some not-so-much.
This
first week, we'll begin by taking a look at cashmere. Just
the mention of its name makes most of us drool. Cashmere
exudes sophistication, elegance, beauty, luxury. It is warm
yet light, soft as a caress on the skin
and it comes
from a goat.
And
not just any goat: 75% of the world's cashmere comes from
China and Mongolia, with Iran and Afghanistan (until recently)
producing about one fifth. The goat that thrives in these
mountainous, chilly countries is Capra hircus laniger. Under
its thick, shaggy, coarse outercoat is a second coat: the
soft and downy hair that is eventually spun into the yarn
we know as cashmere. And here's the rub: a single goat can
produce only four to six ounces of cashmere annnually, and
12 to 16 ounces are needed to make an adult sweater. In other
words, it takes three to four goats one year to make the
yarn for one cashmere sweater. No wonder it costs so much!
To
knit with cashmere, it is usually best to choose a pattern
with simple, uncomplicated lines to show off the beauty and
the texture of the fiber. Cashmere is actually a good fiber
for beginning knitters. Use a slightly larger needle than
you would with wool, because a) cashmere is not so elastic
as wool, and b) the slight "puff" of the fiber
will fill in air spaces to conserve heat for the wearer.
Cashmere
is often blended with silk or with merino wool. This adds
strength, loft, and a potential for stitch definition
and
frequently affects the cost of the yarn as well.
To
care for cashmere, hand wash and rinse in tepid water, using
a gentle dishwashing liquid or mild shampoo, just as you
would any fine woolen. Do not twist or pull the wet garment.
Instead, remove any excess water by gentle squeezing, pressed
inside a towel if you choose. To dry, lay your garment flat,
away from direct sunlight, and reshape. When it has dried,
shake it sharply a few times to raise the nap. Then fold
or roll it for storage. Do not hang your knitted garments
on hangers; they'll stretch out of shape.
Here
at Mi Rinconcito, we currently have a small selection of
cashmere in stock, from Knit One Crochet Too, and from Colinette,
in Wales. There isn't a huge demand for extra warmth and
elegant luxury in a rustic Mexican village with unpaved lanes.
Still, you never know when the mood will strike for an elegant,
airy shawl, or a gift for that special relative up north.
Besides, it's good for the soul to just come by and stroke
some cashmere from time to time.
Even
if you know it started out on a goat.
Another
Gift From Goats
It
has clothed sultans and kings, biblical man and Hollywood
actors, social doyennes and Scots golf caddies. It is strong
and soft and extremely warm, and we know it best as mohair.
It comes from a goat.
The
angora goat originated somewhere in the mountains of central
Asia, but the breed thrived on the Anatolian plains near
the city of Ankara (formerly known as Angora). The alternate
name, mohair, came from the Arabic mukhayyar. The root of
this word means "chosen," and Turkish sultans monopolized
the fiber for centuries, prohibiting its export and adding
to its mystique. According to the International Mohair Association,
it was pure accident that a pregnant doe was shipped to South
Africa and several to the United States in the mid-1800s.
Profiting from the happenstance, these two countries are
the largest mohair-producing nations in the world today.
Mohair
is most often blended with wool or with silk. By itself,
mohair has a natural sheen, strength, and durability, but
lacks elasticity and is extremely slippery. Mohair is also
warm and has good moisture absorbency, and a natural resistance
to soil and flame. The quality of the mohair is generally
determined by the age of the goat which produced it. Kid
mohair is from the first and second shearing of goats, and
is finer and softer than adult mohair, but has noticeably
shorter fibers than that from a more mature goat.
To
knit with mohair, it is generally best to work loosely. This
permits the fiber's fluff or halo to fill in the open spaces and
also makes it easier to rip out if you spy a mistake in your
work. Remember, a light, airy mohair sweater or shawl will
be just as warm but weigh half as much as one knit more tightly
on smaller needles, but with wool.
The
mohair we carry at Mi Rinconcito is available in ivory, jet,
soft sky blue, cornflower, coral, and seafoam. Called Douceur
et Soie, it is manufactured by K1C2 from 70% mohair, 30%
silk. $110 pesos the 225 yard skein.
The
Wonders of Wool
...extracted
from an article by Sarah Swett in "Interweave Knits," Winter
00/01.
"It
is the stuff of romance, of wealth, of warmth. It has led
to the rise and fall of nations, to myth, and to mystery.
Wool, that simple fiber from the back of sheep, has been
used to create everything from magnificent art to diaper
covers. The almost magical properties of this renewable fiber
continue to delight our senses after more than 34 thousand
years of use.
A
string skirt made of wool dating to the 14th century BC was
found preserved in Denmark. In 1192, King Richard the Lionhearted
of Britain, held prisoner in Austria after the third Crusade,
was ransomed for the entire British wool production of three
monasteries. Because of her wide control over British wool
production, the Wife of Bath, a character in Chaucer's Canterbury
Tales, was unusually well traveled, wealthy, and independent
for a woman of her time. And even today, Asian nomads keep
themselves warm, dry, and comfortable in portable wool dwellings
called yurts.
Mildred
Ross, author of The Essentials of Yarn Design for Handspinners,
has defined wool yarn as "a few strands of fiber supporting
a column of air." It is, in fact, this trapped air that
gives wool its tremendous insulating power, while the wavy, "crimpy" fibers
provide elasticity to the yarn. At the simplest level, there
are three main categories into which the knitter can place
wool fibers: fine wools, longwools, and down wools.
Fine
wools are characterized by softness, elasticity, and loft.
They include Merino, Polwarth, Corriedale, Columbia, Cormo,
Rambouillet, and Targhee. Longwools are prized for their
luster and strength. Among the best known longwools are Wensleydale,
blue-faced Leicester, Romney, Costwold, and Lincoln. Down
type wools tend to be short and bouncy, and include Cheiot,
Suffolk, and Hampshire. In addition, double-coated sheep
such as Icelandic and Navajo Churro have their own devotees,
and Shetland wool is often considered a breed, although technically
it refers to a locale, the Shetland Islands...."
Wool
is warm and a fine insulator. It can be thick or thin, blended
or pure, traditional or modern. While "wool" is
a term commonly used in England and Canada to refer to any
yarn used in knitting (much the way Kleenex is a euphemism
for any paper tissue, or Xerox refers to a copy made on any
machine), in its purest sense wool applies only to the fiber
which comes from sheep. Wool takes dyes well, is durable,
and is known for its elastic properties.
To
care for wool garments, hand wash and lie flat to dry, or
dry clean. Fold or roll your sweaters to store them; hanging
will encourage them to stretch longer than their original
shape. Beware of pesky insects such as moths, and try not
to expose your woolens to harsh sunlight for lengthy periods
of time. (Where is that a problem?) But don't hesitate to
use wool in warm climes; a fine wool quickly absorbs sweat
in socks and sweaters, and a wool loosely knit (as in a lace
shawl, for example) will be just the ticket after sundown
in an outdoor restaurant.
And
one parting comment: studies have shown that more than 80%
of "wool allergies" are not in fact allergies to
the fiber, but rather to the dyes and chemicals used in processing
the wool. Common culprits are "washable wools" (it's
the process used to make the wool machine-washable which
makes you itch) and large, commercial dye lots. So try instead
a hand dyed (also known as handpainted) wool: the processes
used by these small, private producers are necessarily gentler,
because the dyer is using her own hands and often her own
kitchen to color the yarn.
We
love to touch it, to snuggle up in it; we make babies' things
from it; we cover pillows and our bodies with it. Yet it
isn't even a fiber. It's chenille, named after the animal
it represents: the caterpillar.
Chenille
is not spun from raw fiber. It is created by a machine which
twists already-spun fibers together around a vertical core,
and then cuts the horizontal effect yarn to create a pile,
or fur like effect. Chenille is most commonly made from cotton,
wool, silk, rayon, acrylic, or microfibers.
The
history of chenille is less than lucid, but it likely originated
in the 17th century as an embroidery thread. In its earliest
guises, it was known as the poor man's velvet, because of
its similar texture but more affordable price. During the
1700s, chenille was primarily a fabric for household ornaments,
but at the end of the 1800s it became sought after for use
in evening gowns. More recently, chenille has been popularized
in sweaters, scarves, throws, hats, gloves, and occasional
workout togs.
Two
complications can arise in knitting with chenille: it has
no elasticity, and frequently it "worms." To counter
the lack of elasticity, choose a pattern that doesn't have
ribbing, run a fine piece of elastic through the ribbing
if you must use it, or use a different, more elastic yarn
for the ribbed edges. To offset the worming problem, choose
chenille that is made of rayon or a blend of fibers, especially
if one of the fibers is cotton, which is most likely to shed
bits of itself. You can also use smaller needles and knit
more tightly, but what kind of fun is that?
Conventional
wisdom says to hand wash chenille, and I echo that if the
yarn sheds a lot while you are working with it. But I have
also had amazing luck simply throwing chenille in the washer
and dryer, particularly a rayon chenille. For this reason
I frequently suggest chenille for making baby garments: the
contemporary colors are bright and modern, and it is about
as easy-care as hand made garments get.
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